Newsletter #243 - Is Hospitality a Thing of the Past?
26 Nov 2014- Details
- Category: Newsletter Archives
MichaelPinkusWineReview Newsletter 243 November 2014
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WineReview: Is Hospitality a Thing of the Past?
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Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
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Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
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Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country
WineReview: Is Hospitality a Thing of the Past?I have a confession to make, ever since I moved into the Niagara area I visit the wineries less. Having something in your own backyard makes it seem “always visit-able” / “always at-hand”, but it’s always “another day”. But I also like to get out for the occasional visit with winemakers and winery principals who invite me or when I get intrigued by an email blast a winery has sent out about a new release … but those visits are much different experiences.
The other times I seem to venture out of the house for winery visits is during an event. This was the case over the month of November when I checked out both Wrapped Up in the Valley and Taste the Season in the 20 Valley and Niagara-on-the-Lake respectively. If you have read my write-ups I talk primarily about the food, as the wine plays second-fiddle to the pairing or what is on the plate … as I state multiple times: if you were really interested in the wine you have 25 other weekends throughout the year to make your way to wine country – I also feel these events bring people out to wine country that would normally not venture out there, more on that later.
As I went from winery to winery I was struck by some commonalities amongst the wineries: the ones who gave a great experience were those that made you feel welcome and invited you in with a smile and continued that hospitality all the way through the pairing to the “see you next time” as you walked out the door. Then there is the other side of the coin (and this was the part I left out of my write ups), there were more than a handful of wineries/staff that made you feel like you were wasting their time, a hindrance or that they would much rather be somewhere else (anywhere else) but here.
After giving it some thought it came to me as a sports reference: have we hit that expansion team overload amongst the wineries of Niagara? What I mean by that is a watering down of the talent available. For example: when a league (NHL, NFL, CFL, etc.) expands to include more franchises the biggest worry is that there will not be enough high-caliber talent in the pool to feed that new franchise and keep it competitive. Now apply the same theory to the wineries: with more and more wineries opening every year is the talent pool of engaged and conscientious prospective “manpower” really there to staff them? Is that the problem? Or should we just blame training and be done with it?
A wine writer from another country (who will remain nameless) wrote to me about a visit he recently made to a winery in Niagara (which will also remain nameless). Here were some of his comments about the tour he took:
“Worst tour: Inexperienced tour guide who didn't understand what she'd been taught and gave a series of garbled ideas … e.g. windmill in vineyard uses propane to heat the vines, grafting is done because it’s too cold here to grow on own roots, [also] told us we wouldn't enjoy the wines in the tasting and that their barrel fermented and aged Chardonnay was best in a spritzer.”
I’m not saying all wineries are bad, but there are some that leave, for lack of a better expression, a bad taste in the mouth – even when their food (or, for that matter, wine) is delicious. One of the wineries we visited in Niagara-on-the-Lake provided us such a lousy experience that they almost did not make our top five … but their food was just so memorably delicious, it was the thing that saved them – now imagine if they did not have that food, it would have been memorable for all the wrong reasons.
Whether it’s the lollygagging behind the counter, chatting with co-workers to the point where you indicate where to go with your chin (“it’s over there”), ignoring a guest until they approach you, or just being grumpy and surly, it all takes its toll on the winery’s reputation. A bad experience sticks in your mind more and longer than a good one. I especially remember a tasting at a famous Niagara-on-the-Lake winery about 10 years ago where, after buying two cases of wine between the three people I was with, the staff member who served us chased us out into the parking lot for the $5.50 tasting fee … I have never, ever forgotten that one.
If wineries are going to put on these come-out-and-visit-us events, they had better put their best foot (read: staff) forward. As mentioned earlier, sometimes this is the first time some people enter wine country and that first impression experience will last a lifetime … it might even be the difference between the guest wanting to return or not (and I am not just talking about a specific winery) – each and every member of a winery’s staff is an ambassador for wine country – that may seem like a heavy burden to put on their shoulders, but it also happens to be the truth.
Let’s face it, I’m not a winery, I am not even an employer; many years ago I did the hiring and sadly, firing, for a few retailers that I had the good fortune to manage, so I do know what I was looking for in staff: people that could represent the company well. Sure being presentable is part of it, but being articulate, friendly and knowledgeable is an even bigger part (I would take a person with rings in their nose and lips if they had those three qualities over a well-groomed idiot any day). Sure, even the best of people have a bad day – but you really can’t bring that bad day to work. As one former winery principal recently said to me, “it’s called the hospitality industry for a reason and if you can’t be hospitable maybe you shouldn’t be in it”.
I’d now like to turn it over to you, my readers … let me hear about your winery experiences, the good, the bad and the ugly; tell me what made you thrill and what gave you the chills, and I’ll publish the best stories in the first newsletter in January. Share ‘em by email or Facebook (OWR) or Facebook (Ontario Wine Lovers) – but try to avoid giving the winery's name.
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy WinesBlueberry Hill 2011 Blueberry - $14.95 (W)
www.blueberry-hill.ca
When your name is Blueberry Hill the one wine you just have to make right is the one made from blueberries – and in this case you will not be disappointed. The main reason for this is they treat blueberries as if they were grapes: basket pressed, punched down three times a day, 6 months in oak barrels … the result is a purity of blueberry fruit that adds spice and cinnamon notes to round out the palate, plus there’s even a tinge of vanilla on the finish. Add in acidity and the slightest hint of sweetness and you’ve got yourself one awesome wine – blueberry or otherwise. Price: $14.95 – Rating: ****
Burning Kiln 2012 Cab Frank - $24.95 (W)
www.burningkilnwinery.ca
I guess if you mess with the freshness of grapes (ie: fully dry them for 10 days) you can also mess with the name, but this Cab Franc has become a Frank for an even simpler reason … the guy who tends to them in the vineyard is named Frank. Nose is raspberry, cherry, and cassis interlaced with tobacco … Palate is spicy and smoky with red currants, cherries and tobacco notes. Comes across as mainly smooth but with some bite on the finish. Price: $24.95 – Rating: ****
Creekside 2010 Merlot Reserve - $34.95 (W)
www.creeksidewine.com
They say Merlot and Ontario go hand-in-hand, there are times I would agree and times I would say nay … this is one of those positive times and I urge as many Merlot-lovers as possible to try this beauty. Aromas start off with blackberry, black raspberry and cocoa … Palate shows a complexity that 20 months in a mix of American/Hungarian and French barrels has given it (40% of which were new). Flavours of sweet dark fruit, chocolate, blueberry and raspberry. It’s a real juicy wine – even more approachable than one would expect from a Niagara Merlot. Price: $34.95 – Rating: ****+
Coyote’s Run 2012 Syrah, Red Paw Vineyard - $24.95 (W)
www.coyotesrunwinery.com
Is it just me or are more and more wineries in Ontario making Syrah? And not just that, but they’re actually getting Syrah right; that’s pretty impressive in our cool climate (where we don’t make Shiraz). This single vineyard / single soil version from Coyote’s Red Paw plot smells smoky and meaty with blueberry and cassis aromas followed on the palate by an earthy character and flavoured with white pepper, smoky and toasty notes; grippy and gritty tannins that finishes with raspberry, white pepper and fine acidity. Only 111 cases made. Price: $24.95 - Rating: ****+
Peller 2012 Cabernet Franc, Private Reserve - $21.95 (W)
www.peller.com
A lot of people have come up to me recommending their favourite Cabernet Franc of 2012 – I would have to say this Peller version is definitely on my short list. Nose is textbook hot weather Franc in all its raspberry, cassis and tobacco glory. The flavours follow the nose but add a gentle smokiness and silky tannins abound on the long luxurious-style finish. I’d have to say that simplicity never tasted so good. Price: $21.95 – Rating: ****+
Norman Hardie 2012 Cabernet Franc, County Unfiltered - $25.00 (W, L)
www.normanhardie.com
I love that Norm Hardie has expanded his portfolio to include Cabernet Franc. He told me he always wanted to do it; he just had to find the right site for the grapes. This single block of Franc comes from the vineyard “next door”, where he gets 8 tons off the 4 acres, and uses 2nd and 3rd fill barrels for 10 months. The wine has great raspberry with a touch of plum on the nose; the palate is a plethora of flavours cherry, raspberry, vanilla with smoky notes and delicate floral, in the form of violets, finished off with a nice balance of tannins on the medium-length finish. Price: $25.00 – Rating: ****
Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).
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Taste the Season is Niagara-on-the-Lake’s must-do event in November! Celebrate the season's bounty with locally inspired VQA wine and food pairings at each winery member every weekend in November. Pairing information and ticket purchasing can be found right here: wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com/taste-the-season
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