Newsletter #244 - The Year That Was 2014: The Year of ...
17 Dec 2014- Details
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MichaelPinkusWineReview Newsletter #244
December 2014
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WineReview:The Year That Was 2014: The Year of ...
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Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
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Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
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Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country
WineReview: The Year That Was 2014: The Year of ...The Winter from Hell … The cold and snow rolled into Ontario early and stayed often, a little too often for some, in some regions -36C was seen on the thermometer, and felt in the vineyard. The Lake Erie region got hit the worst, with some vineyards reporting almost total loss of crop, and what some did salvage will make a very limited batch of “Vortex” red or white. The alarms that disaster struck in Niagara as well were premature. Yes, there was vineyard loss and winter damage, in particular Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc took the brunt of it, with others reporting the loss of Syrah, Semillon and other varieties … but now that harvest is completed winemakers (who got grapes) are enthused by how resilient their vines and grapes were. We wait and see what comes from vintage 2014, but it certainly isn’t all the doom and gloom across the board as was originally reported in the Spring of 2014.
The Farmer’s Market … With the wine producers screaming for “access to market” the Liberal government gave them exactly what they were asking for … access to “Farmer’s Markets” (a clear act of be careful what you wish for; but the limitations and regulations were as inane as you would expect from Ontario. And what the Liberal machine gives with one hand they protect with the other … while places like the CD Howe Institute released a report echoing calls from the past for a more liberalized system, this government continued to lean on the antiquated and outdated LCBO for the sale of booze. And while some wineries jumped whole hog on the farmer’s market “opportunity” others held back seeing it for what it really is: a smoke and mirrors act to keep the wineries at bay and a form of placating them, all the while the wineries have figure out the logistics to take full advantage of the “opportunity” – which in turn takes their eyes (and minds) off the bigger issue that they should be focusing and fighting for: full scale access to their own provincial market.
The VQA Boutique … Speaking of access to market and leaning heavily on the LCBO, this was the year the VQA Boutique was born – and what a joke that is. The LCBO in its infinite wisdom, decided it was high time to shed some light on the good VQA and Ontario wines made in the province. So they retro-fitted a few stores to house Ontario Boutiques within, highlighting all the Ontario wines the board carries – not a bad idea in theory and on paper – but the locations they chose to house these new boutiques became a real head-scratcher. Instead of the obvious choices like Toronto, Ottawa, Kingston, London or anywhere up north where Ontario wine is not readily available with a hop in the car and hour and a half drive – the LCBO chose to launch these stores in Niagara, St. Catharines, Windsor and soon after Belleville: ALL locations in the heart of Ontario wine country. Ineptitude or stroke of competitive genius? You decide.
The Beer Store Declared War … It’s hard to believe that a virtual monopoly would declare war on a sector that has meant so much to them in other provinces and jurisdictions over the years, but The Beer Store declared war on Ontario’s corner store owners who want a slice of the beer and wine selling pie. In commercials leading up to the provincial election The Beer Store slagged corner store owners, painting them as complacent, incompetent, uncaring about society and generally lackadaisical boobs willing to sell beer to anyone who darkened their door. I have never seen such an example of a pot calling the kettle black moment … There are a countless number of corner stores that sell beer in other provinces in Canada and see themselves as working closely with the big beer companies that own The Beer Store in Ontario. Talk about biting the hand. There was also the panel headed by Ed Clark revealing that The Beer Store has been operating without so much as a franchise fee to the government for the monopoly it enjoys in this province. So really, who are the incompetent boobs here – those running The Beer Store or the government who year after year allows them to run amok? Heck to me it seems a virtual tie.
The Straight Up Video … There has always been opposition to the LCBO and the way we do the business of alcohol here in Ontario, but someone finally had the nerve to shine a light on the subject and make a documentary about the absurdity of our system. Some have accused it of being too beer and spirit focused, but we’re all in the same crappy boat, and if change happens in one sector then it becomes a domino effect and change will happen in the others. That’s what the government is most afraid of and why things don’t change. I tip my hat to the brave one’s who appeared on camera, especially one’s with something to lose – and especially knowing that we have a monopoly that is fear and retribution based – which has been one of our biggest stumbling blocks of the past (no one willing to criticize the LCBO publicly out of fear). If you haven’t seen the video I urge you to take an hour and fifteen minutes out of your life this holiday season and do so … sit down with the kids even, the future generation needs to know what a mess we’ve created and hopefully they’ll fix it, because currently those in power seem unwilling, unable or both. The video can be found here.
The Sweetheart Deal … I have often said that the best news stories break at the worst possible time. Whilst we have all been getting ready for the holiday season with all the hustle and bustle that goes along with it; the story broke of the LCBO & Beer Store’s secret deal to carve up this province and make sure the fate of their products remain firmly and squarely in these two’s grubby little mitts, or at least in a way that each can profit from them. Keep in mind that The Beer Store is a foreign owned entity and private company, and thus should not be afforded a monopoly, or protection, from its sole competitions (if you can call the LCBO that). The deal is pretty damning and screams of collusion – why in 2014 this type of protectionism is needed is still unclear (aside from political lobbying and corruption), especially in the wake of a call to bring down barriers for better access to market by our own local wineries, breweries and spirit producers. And now comes word of a class-action lawsuit. This is a story that is just breaking and one worth watching – but the question remains: will the holiday season kill this evolving story, or will the subject matter still ring true with Ontarians come the New Year?
The Passing of Richard Karlo … On the morning of November 27 I received an email that at first I thought a cruel, sick joke: Richard Karlo had passed away at age 55. No way. So I did the usual research, and lo and behold the “sick joke” turned out to be a devastating reality. I remember sitting in my chair at my desk in shocked and stunned silence … had I not just seen the man several months ago? I remember having dinner with him and his lovely wife Sherry Martin, not too long ago, where we raved about his sashimi and prowess at the grill (his pride and joy Green Egg) – all while being eaten alive by intrepid mosquitoes who had managed to carve holes in the “impenetrable” mesh surrounding the deck. A night I’ll not soon forget, if ever. He was a pioneer in an industry that so desperately needs them. He was a maverick of the grapevines no one wanted to touch. He made Port when the style seemed out of sync with what the rest of the public wanted to drink. He was a visionary and ambassador for the bright future the County had in store. He will be sorely missed and I for one will miss that smile, that firm jovial handshake of welcome he always gave when you met him, and of course his sashimi will live in infamy in my mind. To read about Richard in more details check out this wonderful tribute to his life in the National Post.
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy WinesAngels Gate 2014-Tasting: NV Handsome Brut - $24.95 (W, L)
www.angelsgatewinery.com
There is something to be said for a cutesy name on a bottle of wine – it’s a marketer’s dream … but when the wine inside is also good it’s also a consumers dream – not only do you get a tasty wine, but one to talk about. Angels Gate plays with the Brut moniker you see on many a label of bubbly and adds the word “Handsome” for a play on words; but it also delivers a lovely apple, lemon-lime and toasty bottle of bubbly in the process, worthy of putting on the dinner table or just for celebrating your handsome brut or ‘brutess’. Price: $24.95 – Rating: ****
Creekside 2012 Cabernet-Shiraz - $16.95 (W)
www.creeksidewine.com
At this price point it’s hard to believe that this wine spent 9 months in 60% new oak of which 40% was American – that’s a lot of new oak in this value priced blend (70% Cabernet Franc – 30% Shiraz) it’s almost enough to make you forget the Shiraz isn’t really Shiraz, it’s Syrah. Lots of cassis, oak and vanilla take center-stage followed by dark brooding fruit with smoky-cinnamon nuances. Price: $16.95 – Rating: ****
Daniel Lenko 2010 Meritage - $59.95 (W)
www.daniellenko.com
Blend is Cabernet Sauvignon dominated, with Merlot and Cabernet Franc playing a supporting role; aged 18 months in French oak, 20% of which was new … and what’s more, this is a wine only made in those years deemed “great vintages” in Niagara – of which 2010 certainly does apply. Fruit is very expressive on the nose backed by beautiful smoky notes. Palate shows off great red and black fruit, a la smoked-raspberry and cassis with vanilla creeping its way in … after 18 months you’d think the oak would take center stage away from the fruit but instead it’s the fruit that shines, making this wine truly harmonious. Price: $59.95 – Rating: **** ½
Domaine Queylus 2011 Cabernet Franc - Merlot, Reserve - $45.00 (W)
www.queylus.com
I got a call from a wine loving friend of mine with this incredulous question: “Is Thomas making Bordeaux varieties?” The ‘Thomas’ to which he refers is Mr. Bachelder, who has made a name for himself, in Ontario anyway, as a master of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir … so seeing him work with Cabernet Franc and Merlot seem a little strange to many. This 75 Franc / 25 Merlot blend is derived from the 5 year old vines on the Queylus properties. Nose is tobacco leaf, raspberry and white pepper; followed on the palate with cigar-smoke, raspberry, white pepper and a nice spicy element. And yes my friend(s) Thomas is making Bordeaux (varieties), quite well I might add. Price: $45.00 – Rating: *** ½+
Grange of Prince Edward County 2009 Gamay - $14.95 (W)
www.grangeofprinceedward.com
What in the world is somebody still doing with an ’09 Gamay for sale? Well in truth I don’t know the answer to that one, but I can tell you it has interesting and impressive character. It was aged 2 years in neutral oak and that has given it a nose that’s earthy and sour cherry dominant – the wine is kinda funky and yet fruity, and moving on to the palate you’ll find a lively cherry fruitiness with nice acidity. So while the nose has some funk the palate more than makes up for it and delivers nicely on the promise the Gamay grape usually offers up. Price: $14.95 – Rating: ****
Keint-he 2012 Chardonnay, Foxcroft Vineyard - $25.00 (W)
www.keint-he.ca
The grapes for this wine come from the Foxcroft vineyard in Niagara, and put together by consulting winemaker Ross Wise – it also spent just under a year in barrel, but has come out with such wonderfully fully developed flavours that really sparks the imagination. Nose revels in aromas like stone fruit, vanilla and pineapple core; palate is even more exciting: buttery with pineapple and vanilla-peach … silky smooth on the palate with a real mouth presence yet also shows balance of acidity and a smoky-oak along with a vanilla laced finish. Price: $25.00 – Rating: ****+
Muscedere 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon - $30.00 (W)
www.muscederevineyards.com
This is one of those wow-wines that can change an opinion in a heartbeat; good thing I already believe Muscedere to be one of the premier wineries in the Lake Erie North Shore area, or this wine would have sealed the deal. Nose is simplistically mocha / chocolate dominated, but it’s the palate that delivers the wow-factor: blue and black berry fruit with smoky-cherry notes that bring mocha along with rich tannins. 25% new oak has given this wine a powerful structure of big tannins backed by fruit that should begin to show itself within a year or two. This is a really delicious wine now and will be for some years to come. Price: $30.00 – Rating: **** ½
Thirty Bench 2013 Riesling, Winemaker’s Blend - $18.95 (W)
www.thirtybench.com
This is the blended Riesling from all 3 Thirty Bench Riesling vineyards (wood, steel and triangle) and is consistently a good Riesling for the money, but the ’13 seems to have a little something extra. The smells scream mineral, green apple and pear, while the palate has the right amount of sweet to sour ratio: apricot versus lime, delicious apple versus mineral all culminating into something that’s fresh, juicy and just downright delicious. Price: $18.95 – Rating: ****+
Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).
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Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and moreThe Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now
Regular Weekly Videos
Video #110 – Pondview 2012 Bella Terra Cabernet Franc
Video #111 – Rosewood Estates 2012 Lock, Stock & Barrel
Plus the videos from Sparkling Wine for the Holidays Week:
Day #1 - Tawse 2013 Limestone Ridge Spark Riesling
Day #2 - Angels Gate Handsome Brut
Day #3 - Cave Spring Dolomite Brut
Day #4 - Flat Rock Cellars 2009 Riddled
Find out what Friday's videos will be by subscribing to the YouTube channel
Weekly Posts on Quench (formerly Tidings) … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Ontario Hits Its Stride
Do You Know What Granache Can Do?
Not Just an Afterthought
On the Road with the Grape Guy (blog)
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
New Wines of Greece - Eternally Modern
Beaujolais Burger and Gamay Luncheon
Muscedere Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 - 2011 Vertical
Benvenuto Brunello, Toronto
The Wines of Garnacha
Port & Douro Tasting
Sonoma in the City
NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog): the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted)
Taste it Again: Stoney Ridge 2005 Reserve Wismer Vineyard Cabernet Franc
Taste it Again: Tawse 2005 Echos Bistro Red
Lost & Found: Daniel Lenko 2002 Meritage
Taste it Again: Cattail 2009 Collaboration Riesling Blend
Taste it Again: Fielding 2006 Syrah
NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added
Vintages Release (blog)
December 6, 2014 - Vintages Report available
January 10, 2015 - coming soon (with new look PDF)
Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country
Icewine Festival 2015 … The Icewine Festival is a unique celebration, where consumers have the opportunity to discover and enjoy Canada's most distinctive and delicious wine. During this special time, wine enthusiasts, cocktail fans, foodies and music lovers can all choose from a collection of Icewine related events reflecting the authentic and local flavours of Ontario. It all starts January 9 and continues thru the 18 at various event locales in Niagara. For all the details check it out by clicking here.
OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.
What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of: he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges. He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes. Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.
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