Newsletter #246 - Ontario at the Crossroads (part 1): Dire Predictions

21 Jan 2015

MichaelPinkusWineReview Newsletter #246

            January 2015

  • WineReview: Ontario at the Crossroads: Dire Predictions

  • Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines

  • Bi-Weekly OWR UpdatesWine Videos, Blog Additions and more

  • Wine Event Spotlight:  See What's Going on in Wine Country


WineReview:  Ontario at the Crossroads: Dire Predictions

There’s a rumour in the wind that a certain amount of privatization is coming to Ontario (wouldn’t that be nice), but I wouldn’t get my hopes up about it just yet – no time line has been given and I am sure that ‘more study’ is necessary … and of course, if track record is any indication, this government will find some way to either screw it up or make it such a complicated piece of legislation that it’ll take years to get through all the red tape behind it.  I once heard Jerry Agar, of NewsTalk 1010 fame, say (and I’m paraphrasing here) ‘if you want something screwed up get government involved’; he’s a proponent of the private sector because they can do it more efficiently than government if only ‘the man’ would just get outta the way … I would have to agree with him here.  So far the government has made a mess of our liquor system that even repressed, despotic and 3rd world countries have better access to alcohol then we do.

Sadly, I believe it might be too little too late for some of Ontario wineries who have suffered this long, but might not be around to see the light at the end of the tunnel (if and/or when it comes).  Yes, this might be the end of the line for a number of our precious wineries and we only have ourselves to blame for their demise.  They have been as vocal as any sector, crying for help, not necessarily a hand out (which the grape growers seem to get) as much as a hand up – basically they’ve been pleading with each government:  “please give us access to (our own) market (at the very least) and we’ll show you what we can do”, all to no avail.

Why the pessimistic attitude?  Let’s look at the facts.  It takes some rather deep pockets to own a winery in Ontario, that or a good credit rating, because money is the number one thing required to open the doors.  But making it is more of an uphill battles then in any other business I this province.  Post-1993, when the majority of the wineries around today opened their doors, your cellar door is the only place you can sell your wine – sure you could tap into the LCBO and the restaurant market, but that’s it. And although recent federal regulations have been lifted regarding the selling and especially shipping of wine across the country, many provinces have yet to enact their own legislation governing the practice, hence leaving the entire topic, not to mention hundreds of wineries, in limbo, unable to tap the rest of the country as a market for fear of breaking the law.  With so few avenues to sell home-grown wine the government has basically handcuffed the industry – let alone the number of asinine rules that govern the industry from within (more on that next time) – it has all been put in place it would seem, so that wineries are destined to fail; that they remain open is a testament to their resolve and passion.

So far wineries have valiantly persevered through all of this … but how long can this go on?  In speaking with a few insiders and casually floating the notion that I conservatively saw half a dozen wineries closing in the coming 3 years, my insiders balked at the notion of just 6 shutting their doors, “big changes are coming, and not in a good way” one said, adding that number was likely to double or triple.  These people have sunk their life savings into a venture and committed their families and futures to something that they would like to see through, no matter how bad it gets (or you sell to the Chinese, who seem to be gobbling up Niagara wineries like a kid popping Skittles).  The problem now is will change happen fast enough to save those sitting on the cusp?

Bottom line seems to be that a number of wineries will never see the dawning of that new day where even semi-privatization hits these shores:  it’s the story of the guy in the crow’s nest saying he sees land after a long arduous voyage then falls to his death before reaching the new land.  Ironic isn’t it?  Ironic and sad to know that such a tragedy could have been avoided by listening and applying some forethought … something sadly missing in this province when it comes to our wineries and other home-grown alcohol producers.  Will there be privatization?  I don’t have a crystal, but I’m fairly certain not everyone will be around to see it.

 


Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:  New and Noteworthy Wines
 

Inniskillin 2012 Riesling Icewine - $69.95 / 375ml (W)
www.inniskillin.com
This is where Inniskillin truly excels, and has for many years … this Riesling Icewine has just what you’re looking for in the sweet stuff: honeyed apple, pear and apricot on the nose with pretty flavours that parallel the aromas adding a touch of spiced apple along the way.  Price: $69.95 / 375ml – Rating: ****

Norman Hardie 2013 Riesling - $21.00 (W)
www.normanhardie.com
Once again a blended Riesling from both Niagara (65%) and the County (35%); Norm knows how to make the most of his two soils.  Nose shows a pretty lime note before peach slides in … the palate continues with the lime adds great acidity with a touch of citrus pith and good minerality on the long finish.  At only 10% alcohol this one is made for one of those two-bottle afternoon easily.  Price: $21.00 – Rating: ****

Ravine 2012 Merlot - $35.00 (W)
www.ravinevineyard.com
Don’t get too use to Merlot in Ontario, winter 2013/14 did a lot of damage to this varietal and if 2014 has anything to say it might wipe it out entirely (time will tell).  For now you can both enjoy and lament Merlot’s existence,  like this one from Ravine … lots of bright red fruit with raspberry and cherry along with hints of blueberry and gentle spice.  Very fruit forward with a lovely silky smooth almost sexy finish.  Price: $35.00 – Rating: ****+

Strewn 2012 Chardonnay, American Oak - $24.95 (W, L)
www.strewnwinery.com
My favourite tastings include wines that show a difference due to a minor tweak in winemaking, but otherwise are similar.  Here winemaker Marc Bradshaw put Chardonnay in primarily new oak for 15 months ... the difference is the country from which the oak originates.  The American version is aggressive from nose to tongue with plenty of butter and spice backed up by baked apple … Palate is round and creamy with an aggressively spicy finish – mid-palate it’s apple puree and peach juice fruited.  See review of French oak version for the differences.  Price: $27.95 – Rating: ****

Strewn 2012 Chardonnay, French Oak - $27.95 (W)
www.strewnwinery.com
My favourite tastings include wines that show a difference due to a minor tweak in winemaking, but otherwise are similar.  Here winemaker Marc Bradshaw put Chardonnay in primarily new oak for 15 months ... the difference is the country from which the oak originates.  The French version has a delicacy to it:  apple, peach, butter and touch of vanilla on the nose.  Palate has buttered and baked apple, poached peach, vanilla cream and delicate spice … it really shows finesse and delicacy with every sip.  See review of American oak version for the differences.  Price: $27.95 – Rating: ****+

Two Sisters 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay - $24.00 (W)
www.twosistersvineyards.com
Niagara’s newest winery is located in Niagara-on-the-Lake right next door to Peller, and it certainly has an impressive interior, the wines are well on their way to match with winemaker Adam Pearce now at the permanent helm.  One of his first full efforts is this Unoaked Chardonnay aged 100% in stainless steel, but kept on lees for a little added weight and texture:  lovely creaminess with hints of vanilla, peach and pineapple – but this is purely a fruit driven version of Chardonnay that impresses with that little something extra.  Price: $24.00 – Rating: ****

Westcott 2013 Chardonnay, Reserve - $29.00 (W)
www.westcottvineyards.com
Here’s the 4-barrel selection Reserve from Westcott, which goes through the exact same barrel / cellar regime as their Estate version … but these are deemed the more intriguing barrels when blended together (not necessarily the best barrels).  Nose shows some sweet apple and butterscotch notes, while the palate is much more expressive:  apple sauce along with hints of toasty and smoky notes – you’ll also find the palate quite supple while the oak plays around in the background … nice weight with a seductive almond-praline finish.  Price: $29.00 – Rating: ****

Availability legend:  W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) –  OL (On-Line).


Advertising ...

Advertising


Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
 

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Regular Weekly Videos

Video #113 - Hillebrand 2013 Trius Rose
Video #114 - Featherstone 2012 Canadian Oak Chardonnay

Subscribing to the YouTube channel by clicking here

Weekly Posts on Quench (formerly Tidings) … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Meet Josh, Cellars that is
No Laughing Matter

On the Road with the Grape Guy (blog)
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Umbrian Winery Tasting: Tenuta le Velette

NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog):  the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted) 
Taste it Again: Coyote's Run 2007 Red Paw Pinot Noir
Taste it Again: Tawse 2005 Echos Bistro Red (Nov. 2014)
Lost & Found: Old Ontario with Larry for Larry
Taste it Again: Older Ontario at U.S. Thanksgiving

NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
January 24, 2015 - Vintages Report will be available afternoon of Thursday Jan 22
February 7, 2015 - coming soon


Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

Days of Wine and Chocolate returns to Niagara-on-the-Lake, all 4 weekends in February (Friday/Saturday/Sunday).  Check out all the details here.

The Stratford Chefs School will present their annual Gala Dinner and Auction on Sunday, February 22, 2015, at George Restaurant in Toronto.  For details click here.


OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of:  he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges.  He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes.  Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

Psst, Pass It On
… keep the good wine flowing. Forward this newsletter to your mom in Milton, your son in Smith Falls, or any other family member or loved one that you know needs good wine advice.

Socially Speaking …
Follow Michael Pinkus, the Grape Guy’s (almost) daily Tweets at http://twitter.com/TheGrapeGuy .
You can become a friend on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/mepinkus
Those who are “Linked In” can find Michael at http://ca.linkedin.com/pub/michael-pinkus/14/704/4b8 .

To contact us with feedback, article ideas, comments, concerns or questions – email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. We look forward to hearing from you!

© MichaelPinkusWineReview.com 2015. All rights reserved. You may use the content of this newsletter by including full credit to Michael Pinkus, Grape Guy and a link to www.michaelpinkuswinereview.com

Get Our Newsletter

* indicates required

Follow Us on Social Media

Facebook Twitter Instagram YouTube