I think it was back in 2003 when my then wine drinking compatriot voiced what my growing wine collection already knew, “I really love Ontario Cab Franc” … Well she and I have since moved on in our respective lives but I know that our wine tastes remain similar to this day, we still love Ontario Cabernet Franc – a love we share with many Ontario wine drinkers, winemakers and winery owner. Which is why I was thrilled to host the first OntarioWineReview Cabernet Franc Challenge in November 2007. We assembled panels of regular every day wine drinking folks, at the Fine Wine Reserve in downtown Toronto, and we tasted our way through a total of 68 wines in 4 different categories from 39 wineries over the course of six nights. Our panels judged these wines based on 3 criteria: Do you like it (taste)? Would you buy it (likelihood)? And is it good value (value)?
To read about the Cab Franc nights please see Newsletter #74 (out now) and Newsletter #75 (available January 31) - Cabernet Franc Blends, Reserve Cabernet Franc and Icewine will be on the website and in the newsletter on January 31.
The following is a night-by-night breakdown of each category and the placing of the wines … below the wine you will see comments that were made by actual tasters.
November 8, 2007 – Cabernet Franc (non-reserve) … part 1
1. Willow Heights Estate Winery (Niagara) 2004 Cabernet Franc - $13.95 – Winery
“Fresh strawberry, raspberry aromas, very aromatic. Very ripe, fresh
red fruit. Residual sweetness in mid-palate and into finish – very
smooth.”
2. 20 Bees (Niagara) 2006 Cabernet Franc – $12.95 – Winery & LCBO
“Bright fruity nose. Cherry, maraschino palate. Light and pleasant. Good price.”
3. Hernder Estate Wines (Niagara) 2004 Cabernet Franc - $14.95 – Winery
“Cedar nose, pencil shavings and a bit of tobacco on the palate.”
4. Pillitteri Estates Winery (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Franc - $18.00 - Winery
“Celery seed on the nose, full bodied, raspberry, moderate tannins, long finish.”
5. Coyote’s Run Estate Winery (Niagara) 2005 Cabernet Franc - $22.00 – Winery
“Cedar nose carries to the palate with dark red fruit. Excellent vanilla and chocolate.”
6. Mountain Road Wine Company (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Franc - $17.95 - Winery
“Ripe red fruit and earth aromas, fresh, juicy, ripe cherry and red currant flavours.”
7. D’Angelo Estate Winery (LENS) 2002 Cabernet Franc - $13.00 - Winery
“Light red fruit, eucalyptus aromas, black licorice, ripe sour cherry and earth flavours.”
8. Colio Estate Wines (LENS) 2005 Colio Cabernet Franc - $10.75 – Winery & LCBO
“Ooh … attractive nose. Nice fruit forward palate. Some mint and cocoa on the finish.”
9. Angels Gate Winery (Niagara) 2004 Cabernet Franc – $16.95 - Winery
“Red fruit aromas and spice. Fresh ripe red fruit, nice tannins, medium finish.”
10. Lailey Vineyard (Niagara) 2004 Cabernet Franc - $28.95 - Winery
“Dusty red berry, generous nose, oak, long finish, herby.”
11. Huff Estates (PEC) 2006 Cabernet Franc - $14.95 – Winery
“Good balance, nice easy drinking wine.”
12. Oak Heights (Other) 2006 Cabernet Franc – $19.95 – Winery
Disqualified … 75% Franc, 25% Sauv – should have been submitted as blend
“Red fruit aromas, vanilla, spice, (clove?), green pepper, sour cherry, light, fresh, some sweetness on finish.”
November 14, 2007 – Cabernet Franc (non-reserve) … part 2
1. Henry of Pelham (Niagara) 2005 Cabernet Franc - $13.95 – Winery & LCBO
“Red fruit aromas. Ripe red fruit flavours, med body and tannins. Good dry finish.”
2. Hillebrand (Niagara) 2005 Trius Cabernet Franc – $14.95 – Winery
“Good concentration, balanced, structured – nice fruit and finish.”
3. Joseph’s Estate Winery (Niagara) 2004 Cabernet Franc - $16.95 – Winery
“Plumy dark fruits, thin on palate but good balance and finish – pale colour.”
4. Lakeview Cellars (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Franc - $18.00 – Winery & LCBO
“Sweetness on the nose – raspberry jam? Soft, very approachable, very fruity.”
5. Kacaba Vineyards (Niagara) 2003 Cabernet Franc - $25.95 – Winery
“Forward nose of black fruit, oak and lightly herbaceous. Quite tannic, long finish.”
6. Pelee Island Winery (LENS) 2002 Cabernet Franc - $10.95 – Winery & LCBO
“Black cherry, sweetish on palate. Light tannins, lighter style, fruit forward.”
7. Colchester Ridge Estate Winery (LENS) 2005 Cabernet Franc - $14.95 - Winery
“Cherry fruit, sweet. Solid colour. Low tannins.”
8. Lailey Vineyard (Niagara) 2005 Niagara River Cabernet Franc - $28.95 – Winery
“Black cherry, vanilla, earth aromas. Herbaceous into finish – juicy black fruit, soft tannins.”
9. Chateau des Charmes (Niagara) 2005 St. David’s Bench C. F. – $25.00 - Winery
“Very herbaceous, fuller bodied, tannin … very well balanced.”
10. Caroline Cellars (Niagara) 2054 Cabernet Franc - $14.00 - Winery
“Black cherry, strawberry, raspberry aromas. Ripe red fruit flavours, slightly jammy.”
11. Sprucewood Shores (LENS) 2005 Cabernet Franc - $17.95 – Winery
“Very herbaceous, green pepper, a little bit of fruit and dirt. Red
fruit, juicy and residual sweetness mid palate – dry finish.”
12. Vineland Estates (Niagara) 2006 Cabernet Franc – $12.95 – Winery & LCBO
“Strawberry, red cherry, jammy and juicy aromas. More fruit than herbaceous. Juicy, aromas follow through to finish.”
December 11, 2007 – Cabernet Franc (non-reserve) … part 3
1. Colchester Ridge Estate Winery (LENS) 2006 Cabernet Franc - $14.95 – Winery
“Black fruit and ripe cherry flavours. Medium Bodied.”
2. Frog Pond Farm (Niagara) 2006 Cabernet Franc – $16.00 – Winery
“Ripe red fruit aromas. Juicy red fruit, nice tannins. Medium finish – dry.”
3. Thirty Bench (Niagara) 2005 Small Lot Cabernet Franc - $35.00 – Winery
“Black fruit, earth, tobacco and oak aromas. Good structure, black fruit and vanilla oak flavours. Nice.”
4. Pillitteri Estates Winery (Niagara) 2005 Cabernet Franc - $18.00 - Winery
“Black cherry, vanilla, oak, earth aromas, lightly spicy. Nice
sweetness on mid-palate, black fruit flavours and spicy
characteristics.”
5. Sandbanks Estate Winery (PEC) 2006 Cabernet Franc - $19.95 – Winery
“Black cherry, smoke and oak aromas. Ripe black fruit, medium body and finish.”
6. Lailey Vineyard (Niagara) 2005 Canadian Oak Cabernet Franc - $34.95 - Winery
“Black cherry, raspberry, light spice aromas, juicy black fruit and floral, could age a few years.”
7. Reif Estate Winery (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Franc - $18.95 - Winery
“Very interesting aromas: black currant, grapefruit and garlic. Juicy
cherry and somewhat of a grapefruit character in flavour. Most
interesting Franc I have ever tasted.”
8. Chateau des Charmes (Niagara) 2002 St. David’s C. F. - $25.00 – Winery & LCBO
“Black fruit, smoke, meat, tobacco, vegetal aromas. Black fruit and vegetal flavours. Good ageing potential.”
For the list of overall placing for Regular Nights click here to download the PDF document
November 20, 2007 – Cabernet Franc Blends
1. Jackson-Triggs (Niagara) 2004 Cab Franc/Cab Sauv - $12.25 – Winery & LCBO
“Blackberry, cherry, raspberry aromas. Ripe black fruit flavours, medium tannins.”
2. Riverview Cellars (Niagara) 2004 Cabernet Merlot – $13.95 – Winery
“Aromas are blackberry, black cherry and oak. Ripe black fruit, medium tannins, medium length dry finish. Some residual sweetness in mid-palate.”
3. Mountain Road Wine (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Reserve - $28.95 – Winery
“Black cherry, vanilla oak, spicy notes in aromas. Ripe black fruit, medium tannins – could age a bit longer. Long dry finish.”
4. Legends Estates Winery (Niagara) 2006 Cabernet - $10.95 - Winery
“Mild herbaceousness, dusty nose, tobacco, oak and black fruit.”
5. Cave Spring Cellars (Niagara) 2005 Cabernet Merlot - $15.95 – Winery & LCBO
“Oak and black fruit nose. Black fruit, green pepper, long finish that’s somewhat hot.”
6. Pillitteri Estates (Niagara) 2002 Trivalente Cabernet Merlot - $75.00 - Winery
“Cedar, spicy pepper, incredible long, long finish.”
7. Chateau des Charmes (Niagara) 2004 Cabernet Silver Label - $9.95 – Winery & LCBO
“Red fruit in nose. Ripe red fruit, earth and a bit herbaceous in flavour.”
8. Ridgepoint Wines (Niagara) 2005 Cabernet Merlot - $15.95 – Winery
“Some floral, some tobacco in aromas, less tannin than others.”
9. Henry of Pelham (Niagara) 2005 Meritage – $14.95 – Winery & LCBO
“Black cherry, raspberry, earth aromas, not overpowering. Dark chocolate, black fruit and earth flavours.”
10. Cattail Creek (Niagara) 2006 Cabernet Merlot - $17.00 - Winery
“Ripe red fruit and earth aromas. Black cherry, earth with medium tannins on the finish.”
11. Pelee Island Winery (LENS) 2006 Merlot Cabernet – $9.45 – Winery … Disqualified … Non-VQA wine
Click here to download the PDF document of Blend night
November 27, 2007 – Reserve Cabernet Franc … part 1
1. Eastdell Estates (Niagara) 2005 Cabernet Franc Reserve - $21.95 – Winery
“Pleasant smoky and chocolate aromas; plumy, fruity and cherry flavours.”
2. Legends Estates (Niagara) 2003 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $17.95 – Winery
“Black cherry and spicy. Nice colour. Oaky and ripe plum”
3. Black Prince Winery (PEC) 2006 Ontario Cabernet Franc Reserve - $15.95 – Winery
“Much lighter in colour – mellow, not too dry.”
4. Wilow Springs Winery (Other) 2005 Testa Limited Reserve Cabernet Franc - $13.95 - Winery
“Liked the nose on this one, sharp in the mouth ”
5. Colio Estate Wines (LENS) 2002 CEV Cabernet Franc Reserve - $19.95 – Winery
“Nose a bit barnyard and leathery, red fruit and sweet pipe tobacco flavours – will keep.”
6. Stoney Ridge Estate (Niagara) 2005 Wismer Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Franc - $36.95 - Winery
“Light nose of raspberries and red fruit.”
7. Erie Shore Vineyard (LENS) 2005 Cabernet Franc Reserve - $18.95 - Winery
“Pleasant cherry taste, smoky nose.”
8. Mountain Road Wine Company (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Franc Reserve - $27.95 – Winery
“Nice smooth feel in the mouth, tasty, not too dry except at the end.”
9. Hernder Estate Wines (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $29.95 - Winery
“Earthy green pepper aromas.”
December 6, 2007 – Reserve Cabernet Franc … part 2
1. Pillitteri Estates (Niagara) 2002 Family Reserve Cabernet Franc - $50.00 – Winery
“Aromas: coffee, spicy, plum, red fruit, green peepre, oak and spice. Palate: red fruit sweetness, ripe fruity flavours, dark fruit, spicy. Long finish … best tonight!”
2. Puddicombe Estates (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $15.00 – Winery
“Ripe red fruit, cedar, cinnamon, nutmeg, herbaceous notes, vanilla and oak – sour cherry, strawberry flavours – lightly tannic.”
3. Colio Estates Wines (LENS) 2005 CEV Cabernet Franc Reserve - $19.95 – Winery
“Lether and barnyard. Palate has good length, balance with spicy black pepper.”
4. Viewpointe Estate Winery (LENS) 2002 Focal Point - $32.95 - Winery
“Black fruit, light spice notes, tobacco aromas; juicy cherry, strawberry, raspberry flavours – a little sweetness in mid-palate. Can age.”
5. Stoney Ridge Estate (Niagara) 2003 Wismer Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Franc - $27.95 – Winery
“Concentrated colour. Leathery, smoky, earthy, dark fruit and green pepper.”
6. Legends Estates (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Franc Reserve - $33.00 - Winery
“Subtle nose: berries, nice balance. Complex flavours, balanced but tannic, needs age.”
7. Black Prince Winery (PEC) 2006 PEC Cabernet Franc Reserve - $18.95 - Winery
“Bright fruit nose, good structure, red fruit with a bit of mint(?). Easy drinking.”
8. Mastronardi Wines (LENS) 2005 Colio Cabernet Franc - $17.00 – Winery
“Mint and licorice on the nose – appealing. Bitter chocolate, some coffee, not a lot of fruit but I like it.”
9. D’Angelo Estate Winery (LENS) 2005 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $20.00 - Winery
“Nose of red berries, palate is very balanced – good for everyday drinking.”
For the list of overall placing for Reserve Nights click here to download the PDF document
December 11, 2007 – Cabernet Franc Icewine / Late Harvest
1. Pillitteri Estates (Niagara) 2004 Cabernet Franc Icewine - $35.00 – Winery
“Rich ripe strawberry, raspberry aromas, floral and honey. Nice sweetness, rich red berry flavours … nice honey finish.”
2. Legends Estates (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Franc Icewine – $36.00 – Winery
“Caramel apple aromas, rich apple cinnamon flavours.”
3. Pillitteri Estates (Niagara) 2004 Select late Harvest Cabernet Franc - $30.00 – Winery
“Nice nose of cherries – smells very sweet. Light strawberry taste.”
4. Henry of Pelham (Niagara) 2006 Cabernet Franc Icewine - $39.95 - Winery
“Strawbery and floral aromas. Strawberry flavours with a medium-long finish.”
5. Mountain Road (Niagara) 2002 Cabernet Franc Icewine - $80.00 – Winery
“Strawberry, raspberry aromas, dark ruby colour, great acidity, homemade jam … a favourite.”
6. Caroline Cellars (Niagara) 2006 Cabernet Franc Icewine - $35.00 - Winery
“Apple, pear, peach aromas with something nutty, aromas replay in the finish – smooth and sweet.”
7. Thomas and Vaughan (Niagara) 2006 Cabernet Franc Icewine - $35.00 - Winery
“Very grapey for aromas – strawberry, raspberry flavours.”
Click here to download the PDF document for Icewine/Late Harvest night
Final Comments:
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, glassware was an issue at this tasting. Since my newsletter of January 3rd (Newsletter #73), I have been getting a steady stream of emails both for and against the ISO glass (thanks to all for your comments). Wines that “need time” are not afforded the same opportunity, (in the consumer’s mind), as those that are made in a “drink now” style. A couple of times after the tasting, a few of the tasters and I would revisit a wine in a more suitable glass (one they would use at home) – and each one agreed that the wine tasted better in the glass they would “normally” use. I think next time I will take that into consideration. It is also interesting to note that in some cases, the high scoring wines would have also faired the same, or better, using different glassware.
Another thing I am bound and determined to hammer home is the feasibility of Cabernet Franc being “Ontario’s Grape”. I am pleased to say, the more I say it, the more people are listening. I have written a few articles on the subject and will continue to do so for many reasons (68 of them are listed above). Each wine we poured showed uniqueness of character and taken as a whole, shows what we can do with this varietal here in Ontario.
Finally, today’s wine consumer is interested in wine like never before. They thirst, not only for good wines, but for knowledge about what they are drinking. I felt that not only did my panel learn a lot at these tastings, but I too learned plenty from them. These results are not just a curiosity; one individual said to me “How much weight can you give these scores – they aren’t professionals.” Well the weight I gave them was equal (the only scores I omitted were my own). I may differ in my opinions on some of these wines, but the panels were made up of the people who drink these wines. Therefore, they are first and foremost the consumers of these wines – and speak not only their mouths, but also with their wallets when it comes to enjoying these wines both in their homes (or anywhere else they chose). Professionals like myself, are just the jumping off point – where the consumer lands is completely a matter of personal taste.
I'd like to thank all the wineries who participated in the Cabernet Franc Challenge.
Thank you also goes out to those wineries who provided wines for the reception:
Calamus Estate; Creekside Estate; Featherstone Estate; Fielding Estate; Jackson-Triggs; Peller Estates; Tawse Winery
And to those wineries that provided wines for dessert:
Applewood Winery; Archibald Orchards & Estate Winery
Thank you to our panel members who came out and had their say about the wines – without them there would be no scores or comments.
A big thank you to my staff: my mother Gloria and dear friend Lee who helped organize glassware, pour wine, set tables, display food and most of all clean up afterward.
Finally, special thank yous to the Original Grape Shirt Company, Balderson Cheese, Raymond Emes Coffee and especially to Mark Russell of the Fine Wine Reserve for the use of his fabulous tasting room.
